WINTER CLOTHING & SEWING WORKSHOPS

Workshop for Breeches by Henry Cooke

Saturday March 8, 2008
9:00 am to 4:00 pm

New Windsor Community Center,
Vails Gate, NY, 12584

Registration | Directions | Contacts | Measurements & Materials


Cost
$20 per person Brigade member. Non-Brigade member $45
Breeches kits $75.for linen, $100 for wool
Limit 15 people.
January 15th deadline for kit order

Registration From PDF file

This is a one-day, hands -on workshop to build Military Breeches. The goal for this workshop is to introduce you to the construction, fitting, and finishing techniques needed to make a pair of well fitting breeches. For those opting for the kit, it is intended that you should be able to sufficiently construct your breeches to allow you to finish them on your own.

The basic workshop includes a breeches pattern and instruction with you providing the materials for the breeches.

The kits will be pre-cut based on your measurements. (See measurement form below) Kit to include: pre-cut Kochan & Philips cloth pieces, linen for lining fall, waist and pockets, buttons (plain unless otherwise requested or provided by participant ). [Various buttons
are available ranging from generic flat to USA and some Regimental device]. The kits will be set up for button closure below the knee. If you wish to use buckles, you will need to supply your own. You will also need to bring 35/2 linen thread for hand construction
and finishing.

For Regiments with special or proprietary needs, materials provided from regimental sources will be give credit against the kit. This would be items such as special production buttons. Some units have material in colors specific to their Regiments impression for a
particular time period. For cases of special materials needs, contact Henry directly to arrange details.

Includes introduction to breeches construction, receiving your kit if ordered, written instructions and working with Henry’s assistance and oversight on getting the garment put together. Henry will be available by phone and e-mail to answer questions.

Wool or linen is available for the kits as follows: Wool Cloth in White or Buff, White Wool Tricot (lighter weight twill wool) for 1778 Lottery or French Breeches, Natural White or Unbleached Linen Osnaburg.
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Directions: New Windsor Community Center: 555 Union Ave, New Windsor, NY (845)-565-7000

To reach the Community Center, proceed as if you were going to New Windsor Cantonment. Go to Schlesinger’s Steak House and turn onto Commerce drive, which is directly opposite the Steak House. The Community Center is on your right with a parking lot in front of it. Watch for the BAR spontoon signs

Event Contact:

For further information contact:
Henry Cooke 781-963-9645… hcooke4@verizon.net
Gene Frechette 603-616-6360 (cell) gene3@aol.com

Measuring for Overalls, Trousers, and Breeches:
Measurements PDF file
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Whether you use one of the available commercial breeches patterns and adapt it to overalls, or draft your own pattern, you still need to take some basic measurements to make sure the finished garment will fit right. The measurements below are keyed to the attached chart to help you get the measures you need.

Important Note: Because the trunk changes shape as you bend or twist to take the various measures, you will need the assistance of someone else to take your measures accurately.

Waist and Hip Measures:

1. ____________Waist - The waist measure is taken around the waist just at the top of the hipbones

2. ___________Hip – The hip measure is taken around the fullest part of the buttocks.

Seat Measure ‘Triangle’: The following sequence of measures form the basis for lying out the shape of the seat of the breeches or overalls to permit them to fit over the buttocks when sitting or squatting:

3. ___________Take of the waist measure, and add 3 or 4 inches, depending on your hip measure. If the hip measure is less than 6 inches greater than the waist,
add 3”; if greater, add 4”

4. ___________Place the end of the measure at the center of the crotch (where all the leg seams on a pair of trousers meet) and have the person measured assume a “catcher’s squat” position. Measure up over the seat to the waist at the center of the back.

5. ___________ While the measurer is still holding this position, shift the measure over the buttock to the top of the side seam at the waist (top of the hip bone)

Inseam, Outseam, and Crotch Depth

6. __________Front Length - Measure front length from the center of the crotch (where you took measures 4&5 from) up the front to the waist. Note whether the person measured has a protruding belly or “beer gut”.

7. ___________Inseam – For breeches, measure the inseam from the center of the crotch (tape must be held high and snug to insure an accurate measure) to the base of the large muscle attachment below the knee. For trousers and overalls, measure to the ankle bone and bottom of the foot, respectively.

8. ___________Outseam – For breeches, measure outseam from the waistline at the top of the hip bone down the side seam to the small indentation on the outside of the leg just below the kneecap. For trousers and overalls, measure down to the ankle bone and bottom of the foot, respectively.

9. ___________Crotch Depth - Subtract the inseam from the outseam. This will give you the crotch depth, which is the vertical distance from the top of the side
seam to the level of the crotch.

Measures Around the Leg

10. ____________Thigh – Measure thigh circumference a few inches below the crotch level.

11. ____________Mass of the Knee - Measure around the kneecap and the large muscle surrounding the knee.

12. ____________Base of the Knee – Measure around the leg just below the knee at the bony hollow just above the shin-bone. This is where the knee band on the breeches should fit.

13. ___________Calf – Measure around the mass of the calf muscle.

14. ___________Ankle – Measure around the leg just above the ankle-bone.

15. ___________Instep - With shoe removed and toes extended, measure around the heel and over the ankle. This will determine how high to make the button slit.

Materials Needed:

Questions? Contact me at 781-963-9645, or hcooke4@verizon.net

Winter Clothing & Sewing Workshop: Breeches PDF file

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