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CCM
Women's Clothing Descriptions with Photos |
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CCM
Women's Clothing Descriptions with Photos |
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1) A white linen
shift acts as a liner between the body and other clothing. It usually
reaches between knee and mid-calf. On the head, a white linen cap was
worn at all times. When donning a hat or bonnet for outdoor wear, the
cap was worn underneath. Long blue thread stockings and low heeled buckled
shoes are somewhat nicer than the rough side out tied shoes most working
women would wear - they might be worn by a house servant. |
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2) The stays are laced on over the shift and underpetticoat (this provides comfortable padding between the body and stays). The stays are worn to compress the bust so it mounds above the top. The neckline of the shift is low and cut square across the bust line. The cap is often worn slightly back on the head to reveal the front hair. Note the tape binding at the hem of the petticoat. |
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3) Hip enhancements, like bum rolls or a small hoop, are put on before the next petticoat. Consider the cut of your gown before choosing a hip enhancement. Generally, gowns cut enferreau work better with the side emphasis of the small hoop. The gown worn in the following photos has the bodice back cut separately and a bum roll looks better. It is worn just below the waist, but above the fullest part of the hip. |
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4) Another petticoat covers the bum roll. The wearing of hip enhancements may affect where you wear your pockets. Generally, place them under your outermost petticoat so you do not have to dig through layers of fabric to access them. |
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5) A final petticoat is placed over the others. Wear at least 2 petticoats. Also notice the fairly short length. This allows you to walk and work without tripping or having to otherwise lift your petticoats. You can either tie on your apron now or tie it on over the waist point of the gown. |
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6) There are a number
of ways to close gowns. Lacing is a versatile way of closing garments
and jackets. This can be used on the inside of the gown on linen strips
stitched through all the gown layers. Holes can also be placed through
the gown fabric at the edges. |
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7) After lacing, the outer fabric is pinned closed with brass pins. Lack of closure devices on historic garments may signify that pinning was most often used to close gowns, with or without lacing. |
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8)Here, basting stitches cover a row of modern hooks and eyes. Do consider that thread was valuable and this technique might be used more often by women of means - generally a gown would close with lacing and/or pins. |
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9) Wearing a busk (a thin long piece of hardwood, like ash) keeps the waist point straight and from curling up. It is either inserted in a pocket in the stays, or just between the layers of clothing. |
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10) A brown and white checked linen handkerchief covers the neck and a straw hat shields the face from the sun. The gown's skirts are tied up underneath with a series of tape ties and loops in a polonaise style - this can also be created by pulling up corners of the skirts through pockets or apron strings, especially while working. |
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11) Many paintings and prints illustrate workingclass women holding on their caps with ribbon or tape, or simply using it to secure the cap around thehead. Narrow ribbons often adorned the neck. A finer white linen cross-barred half handkerchief lends a more fashionable appearance. |
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12) Here’s an extra construction detail on a wool gown. This is cut en fourreau, meaning the fabric is cut in one piece from neck to hem. The fullness is pleated and stitched against the back. |
Acknowledgements: Photos taken by John Lopez. Model was Becky Fifield.
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